Corals and sea fans scattered across the brilliant white-sand bottom. The reefs reveal the true wealth of the Exumas. EXUMAS Some 360 sparsely populated islands and cays spill down the west side of the Exuma Sound for 100 miles before culminating in Great Exuma and Little Exuma.From iguanas to regattas, the Exumas offer a chance to just kick back and enjoy the natural wealth of the land. It still holds remnants of ill-fated ships' anchors, boilers and plating even a fascinating Civil War train wreck await exploration. Forests of elkhorn corals interspersed with star and brain corals are crowned by slow-waving sea fans. Divers today appreciate the Backbone and the many other coral reefs skirting the island's long coastline. The immense coral reef system has ripped open the bottoms of countless ships. First settled in the 1600s by Bermudians seeking religious freedom, the same folks had the tough luck of settling near the Devil's Backbone, an extensive shallow reef line bordering the north end of the island. Deep water, coupled with mangroves and inland waterways, means a wealth of marine life including some of the biggest lobster around, several varieties of sea turtles, and clouds of colorful reef fish.ELEUTHERA Quiet, isolated communities and well-developed resorts, tall rock bluffs and low-lying wetlands, blue holes and massive coral reefs: That's Eleuthera. In some areas, passage by any but the smallest boat is nearly impossible due to the abundance of coral. The reefs of Cat Island are virtually unexplored. You'll find ancient Amerindian campsites, a fascinating cave system and even a replica of a 12th-century medieval monastery. CAT ISLAND Cat Island is as much a topside eco-adventure as an underwater experience. Bimini's wild dolphins are the Bahamas' best-kept secret. Nowhere else in the world can you dive with a land-based dive operation that guarantees daily snorkel trips with wild spotted dolphins. Currents can be swift, but the result is an amazing arena for large pelagics, including wild dolphins. Just offshore, the continental shelf drops vertically for more than 2,000 feet into the Gulf Stream. Blue holes offer fascinating exploration that has become a trademark of Andros.BIMINI Barely 7 miles long and 700 feet wide, Bimini lies along the warm currents of the Gulf Stream, forming a remarkably diverse marine environment. A fascinating maze of freshwater streams and mangrove islands divides the island into a patchwork, ideal breeding ground for tiny fishes and invertebrates. The blue waters of the Tongue of the Ocean stroke the eastern edge of Andros, supporting the third-largest barrier reef in the world. So if you happen to come across a little elf-like creature, be friendly it could bring you good luck. If you wonder why Andros has never been fully settled, it may be a result of the legend of the Bahamian gremlins called chickcharnies. Walker's Cay is most famous for its huge population of reef sharks that go into a frenzy when a fish chumsicle is dropped in, but its waters also include coral caverns, shallow reefs and other nifty encounters.ANDROS The first thing you notice aboutAndros is its huge spreading forests of mahogany and pine trees. On Guana Cay, divers can even occasionally spot wild dolphins. Stroll through the gingerbread houses of picturesque New Plymouth on Green Turtle Cay and enjoy dramatically angular reefs for a fish-filled day. At Pelican Cays National Park, islets feature lush coral gardens, populated by grouper. The Abacos have wonderful beaches, shipwrecks and immense stands of elkhorn corals. Easily visited cays invite exploration, like the lighthouse of Hope Town on Elbow Cay and the historic shipbuilding sites on Man O' War Cay. Marsh Harbour, on the island of Great Abaco, is the largest settlement in the chain. Since there are reported to be 29 islands, 661 cays and 2,387 exposed rocks that stretch over 100,000 square miles of ocean, it's no wonder!THE ABACOS The Abacos combine the yachting atmosphere of New England with the tropical Caribbean. After 15 years of photographing the Bahamas, I still feel like a stranger. Besides the ease and convenience, diversity is the next part of the equation for a great dive adventure. It is, like Europe, a multi-destination country. The Bahamas are not one island or even a single diving area. The Bahamas are often grouped as a singular destination, which is somewhat like saying I vacationed in Europe: It's a big place.

Man o war beach cat island